GAP NZ foundations — set them up for success
- Empty-bladder rule: only freedom inside if the bladder is empty. Toilet first, then crate exit / freedom. This prevents wandering and weeing when unsupervised.
- Crate / confinement (XXL 120 cm or playpen): dogs prefer not to toilet where they sleep → more likely to hold. Prevents accidents while you're out, cooking or showering.
- Escort, don't free-leave: leaving the back door open "hoping" fails — like asking a toddler to find the toilet without ever teaching them where it is. Lead out, wait, reward.
- Reward outside without ending the fun: after toilet give a treat or an off-lead garden wander / game — otherwise wee = end of outside fun association forms.
Times they'll need the loo (GAP NZ list)
First thing + last thing · before / after meals · after a big drink · after playing · when let out of the crate · before going into the crate.
Warning signs
Sniffing the floor · circling · restlessness (especially after lying down) · hovering by the exit door · whining / looking at the door / standing / barking in the crate.
Inside-door pee fix: if they pee just inside on return, you probably didn't escort (cold / dark / rain). GAP: escort in all weather so you know they went. The greyhound doesn't want to be out in the rain either.
The five principles
- One spot, one door, one phrase. E.g. garden lawn by the side gate, always "Toilet?".
- Frequent and boring: go often, wait quietly, reward and return inside. No play outside until reliable.
- Supervise or contain: if you can't watch, the dog is in the crate / pen or tethered to you. Freedom is earned.
- Reward outside, clean inside — no punishment. Scolding teaches fear, not location.
- Log everything. Patterns (after meals / sleep, evenings, stress) tell you when to go next.
Surface matters: carpets, beds and kennel straw feel like "toilet" to a kennel dog. Waterproof covers + restricted access help break the habit. If you must use pads temporarily (flat / illness), place them only at the door — not across the room.
Step-by-step routine (every toilet trip)
- At trigger time (see schedule), calmly clip the lead, muzzle on, say "Toilet?".
- Walk directly to the spot. Stand still, relaxed, lead loose. Avoid chat / eye contact.
- Wait 5–10 min. Sniffing / circling is good. If nothing, walk 1–2 min, loop back once.
- On toilet: quiet praise "Good toilet", then a treat after they finish (so they don't stop mid-pee). Return inside.
- If no toilet: back inside, crate / pen, retry in 15–20 min. Don't scold.
- Log: time, success, type (pee / poo / both), accidents.
Trigger times — go out within 5 minutes of:
Waking up · after eating / drinking · after play or training · after coming inside from a walk · before bed · whenever you see circling, sniffing, whining or restlessness · every 1–2 h while awake in week 1.
Cue training: say "Toilet?" only at the spot. Pair it with the action so it becomes a prompt, not nagging. Stop using it indoors to call them.
The 4-week schedule
| Week | Waking frequency | Night | Freedom | Goal |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Every 1–2 h + all triggers. Night: 1–3 wakes. | Crate / bed nearby. Toilet → straight back, no talk / play. | One room + crate. Tether when out. | Zero unsupervised time. Success = toilet outside >50%. |
| 2 | Every 2–3 h + triggers. Night: 1–2 wakes. | Stretch last toilet 15 min later, first earlier. | Two rooms if no accident for 3 days. | Dog starts going to the door / whining. |
| 3 | Every 3–4 h + triggers. Night: 0–1 wakes. | Calm settle routine (same order nightly). | Supervised living room; crate for absences. | ≤1 accident/day, mostly evenings. |
| 4+ | Every 4–5 h + triggers. Night: sleeps through (many greyhounds do). | Same bedtime routine. No water restriction — offer, then toilet. | Gradual freedom room by room. | Reliable 3–4 days. Then increase freedom. |
Adult greyhound target: 3–4 toilet breaks a day (wake, midday, evening, bedtime) + after meals / sleep. Greyhounds can hold longer than puppies, but frequent early = faster learning.
Night routine template (GAP 3-step)
- Train — 5-min low movement (hand-touch / eye contact / massage) → Toilet — "busy" on lead → Chew / Kong — in crate 5–10 min.
- Lights low, calm music. Talk-don't-touch if sleep-startle risk.
- Whining >5 min / circling / standing: toilet trip, no chat or play (2 am ≠ game time), back to crate + chew. Log it.
- Morning: toilet before breakfast and cuddles.
When to expect reliable: adults can physically hold longer than puppies, but substrate-learning dogs may take months — patience, supervision and clean-up are the answer. Upset tummy, stress, or UTI / bladder infection can also cause accidents — vet check if you're doing everything right and still failing, or if a reliable dog suddenly regresses.
Accident protocol
- Caught in the act: calmly interrupt "Ah-ah", carry / lead outside, wait. If they toilet outside, reward big. If not, crate / pen and retry in 15 min.
- Found after: no scolding, no rubbing noses. Clean with enzymatic cleaner (removes scent). Log the cause: too long? after a meal? stress? excitement?
- Adjust: was it >2 h since the last trip? After a drink? After visitors? Add a trip at that time tomorrow.
- Carpets: blot, enzymatic soak, cover the spot with furniture or a bed for 2 weeks to break the habit.
See the vet if: straining, frequent small pees, leaking, blood, diarrhoea >24 h, vomiting, drinking excessively, or a sudden increase in accidents in an already-reliable dog. UTIs, stress colitis and diet change are common causes.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Only toilets at night / early morning | Too long a hold, too much water late, anxiety. | Later last toilet, earlier first, crate near you, vet check if persistent. |
| Submissive / excited pee (visitors, greetings) | Arousal, greetings. | Side-on greetings, no reaching over the head, short visits; teach sit for hello. |
| Marking (small pees, leg lift, multiple spots) | GAP: male leg-lift small amount; stress / new-home familiarity; intact dogs. | Interrupt + escort outside, supervise, enzymatic clean (no ammonia). Neuter talk with vet. Decreases as the dog settles. |
| Won't go on lead / in rain / at night | Prefers a private spot, scared, too much distraction. | Long line in a secure garden, boring routine, try grass vs path, patience. |
| Poos indoors | After meals, too long a gap, nervousness. | Toilet 10–15 min after meals, log timing, feed on schedule. |
| Diarrhoea / soft stool | Stress, diet change, parasites. | Stay on the kennel food, bland diet per vet advice, stool sample if >48 h. |
| Goes on bed / in crate | Kennel habit (toilets where they sleep). | Reduce crate size (can turn around but not create toilet + sleep zones), more trips, wash bedding enzymatically. |
Flat / apartment adaptation
- Use the same street corner / balcony tray (if allowed) every time. Carry a waterproof mat in the crate for emergencies only — remove as soon as reliable.
- Elevator / lobby: muzzle + lead, low-traffic times at first. Reward in the spot, not in the hallway.
- Longer waits between trips require tighter supervision — tether at home.
Daily toilet log (photocopy this)
| Time | Trigger | Toilet? Pee / poo | Accident where? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 06:30 | Wake | |||
| 07:00 | After breakfast | |||
| 09:00 | — | |||
| 12:00 | Midday | |||
| 17:00 | After dinner | |||
| 21:30 | Last thing | |||
| Night | Wake |
The goal is not perfection — it's predictability. When you can predict when they'll go, you can be there.
Resources — GAP NZ + further reading
| Read | Why |
|---|---|
| 5. Toilet Training — GAP NZ | Foundations, marking, night, inside-door pee, when-trained FAQs. |
| 4. Crate Training | Crate = hold-on + prevents accidents. |
| 3. Settling at Night | Nights 1–7 plan above. |
Toilet-training FAQs
How long does it take to toilet train a retired greyhound?
Most retired racers become reliable in 2–4 weeks with supervision and the empty-bladder rule. Dogs with strong kennel substrate habits can take months, because they learned the surface they live on is also the toilet. Patience, supervision and enzymatic cleaning fix it — punishment doesn't.
Should I use puppy pads for a greyhound?
Avoid them if you can — pads teach that soft indoor surfaces are acceptable toilets, which is exactly the kennel habit you're undoing, and they delay learning. Only use them temporarily and out of real need (flat with no garden, illness), placed only at the exit door, and fade them out as soon as possible.
What should I do if I catch my greyhound peeing indoors?
Calmly interrupt with "Ah-ah", lead or carry them outside, and wait. If they toilet outside, reward generously; if not, put them in the crate or pen and retry in 15 minutes. Never scold or rub their nose in it — that teaches hiding, not location. Clean with an enzymatic cleaner so no scent remains.
Why does my greyhound pee just inside the door after coming back in?
Because the trip probably wasn't escorted — cold, dark or rain meant nobody confirmed the dog actually finished. GAP NZ's fix: escort on lead in all weather so you know they went, and keep the outdoor spot the only place that gets rewarded or extended fun.
Why is my greyhound marking indoors (leg-lift, small pees)?
Marking — small pees, leg lift, multiple spots — is usually stress or new-home familiarity behaviour, more common in entire males. Interrupt and escort outside, supervise, clean enzymatically (never ammonia — it smells like another animal's urine), and discuss neutering with your vet. It typically decreases as the dog settles.
Can a greyhound be toilet trained in an apartment?
Yes. Use the same street corner or permitted balcony tray every time, muzzle + lead for elevator and lobby transits at low-traffic times, reward in the spot (not the hallway), and remember: longer trips between toilets mean tighter supervision — tether at home until reliable.
My house-trained greyhound suddenly started having accidents — should I worry?
Sudden regression in a reliable dog is a red flag: see the vet about UTI or bladder infection (straining, frequent small pees, leaking, blood). Also consider stress, diet change and upset tummy — diarrhoea over 24 h, vomiting or excessive drinking also need a vet check.