1 · The mindset shift: kennel dog → house dog
A retired racer has typically lived 3–5 years in a kennel run: toilet, eat and sleep in one small space; handled by many people; never seen stairs, sofas, TVs or a quiet living room. They are not "naughty" — they are learning house life for the first time.
| What you may see | What it actually means | Your response |
|---|---|---|
| Freezes, stares, won't eat or drink, sleeps all day | Decompression / shutdown in a new environment. | Quiet, predictable, boring. No visitors, no parties, no dog park. |
| Toilets indoors, on beds and carpets | Kennel habit: toilet where they live; soft surfaces feel like grass or straw. | Frequent outdoor trips (Guide 3). Never punish. |
| Startles at noises, floors, stairs, traffic | Never experienced them before. | Distance, choice, treats. Let them observe. |
| Leans on you, follows you everywhere | Bonding and seeking safety; may become clingy. | Welcome it, but build alone time gradually (Guide 4). |
| Very sensitive skin, gets cold easily, bony | Low body fat, thin coat and skin. | Thick bed, coats, gentle handling, no rough play. |
| Explosive chase after squirrels, cats, deer | Sighthound prey drive. | Always leashed, muzzled outdoors at first. Secure garden. |
Rule for week 1: if in doubt, do less. GAP NZ: stress hormones need at least 3 days to normalise before a dog can process rather than react. Adding novelty while stressed invites freezing and leash reactivity — preventable by going very slow.
GAP NZ top-10 settling rules (build your home around these)
- Be proactive: crate, playpen or baby-gate when you can't supervise.
- Give somewhere quiet to rest undisturbed; leave them alone when resting or sleeping.
- Build the bond with play, enrichment and fun training games.
- Supervised children only, at the greyhound's pace.
- Leave them alone at meals; separate from other animals at feeding time.
- Off furniture for at least 3 weeks while house rules are learned (see below).
- No walks for at least 3 days, then quiet only (Guide 2). Always on lead; harness + long-line for sniff freedom.
- Muzzle when introducing new dogs and other animals.
Reading body language — fear & anxiety (GAP NZ)
| Response | What you'll see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Fidget / fool around | Squirming, rolling, frantic play, sniffing, licking, looking away, clingy, play-bow then roll-over. | Stress-relief behaviour. Don't force interaction; calm praise for relaxed investigation. |
| Freeze (classic greyhound) | Stiff and frozen, dilated pupils, panting, trembling, tense closed mouth, ears back, tail tucked, hunched, feet stuck to the floor. | Don't approach or lure with food. Give distance, turn side-on, crouch or sit, avoid eye contact. Let them choose. |
| Flight | Ears back, tail tucked, slinking or running away, mouth closed, furrowed brow. | Give an escape route (open crate / pen). Never corner. |
| Fight (offensive / defensive) | Lunging, ears forward, hackles up, teeth showing, direct stare, bark / snarl / growl — or crouched, whale eye, air-snapping. | Increase distance immediately. Muzzle + lead on. Never punish growling — it is information. |
Touch note: if they seek touch (leaning, nudging), calm patting can help — oxytocin supports bonding. You cannot reinforce fear by comforting, but petting a fearful roll-over can encourage that posture, so reward settled body language instead.
2 · Pre-adoption checklist (do this week)
- Confirm match: ask the adoption group about cat and small-pet suitability, stairs, children, alone-time history, health (teeth, weight, old racing injuries, thyroid), and coat / sex / size preferences.
- Home check / landlord: permission in writing if renting; check lease, insurance and any breed rules.
- Time audit: can you be home most of week 1? Plan leave or flexible work — a new greyhound needs 2 walks a day plus frequent toilet trips at first.
- Support: find a vet (ideally sighthound-aware), a 24-hour emergency vet and an adoption-group mentor; save all numbers in your phone.
- Budget (first month): adoption fee, vet check, vaccines / deworming, insurance, food, bed, crate, lead / collar / muzzle, cleaning, treats — plus an emergency buffer.
- Insurance: quote accident + illness cover before pickup; pre-existing conditions are usually excluded.
- Paperwork folder: adoption contract, vaccination / microchip / neuter records, vet history, racing name + new name, feeding and behaviour notes from kennel or foster.
- Microchip & ID tag: confirm the chip is registered to you on day 1; tag with your phone number (a legal requirement in many places).
- Choose names: keep the racing name for records; pick a short, easy call name (1–2 syllables) for training.
First-time owner tip: Greyhound Trust breed guidance describes greyhounds as gentle, laid-back, low-exercise dogs happy on two short walks a day — but individual dogs vary. Trust your adoption group's assessment of the specific dog over breed stereotypes.
3 · Home setup: make one "yes" area, not the whole house
On day 0, limit your dog to one living room + the toilet area (plus crate and bed). Expand room by room over 1–3 weeks as toilet reliability and confidence grow.
Dog-proof checklist
- Lift: socks, shoes, hair ties, small objects, cables, remotes, medicines, cleaning products, bins, chocolate, houseplants (lilies are toxic), cat food and meds.
- Secure: kitchen cupboards, bathroom, laundry (toxic detergents), bin lids, toilet lids, balcony.
- Mark glass doors with stickers, tape, an ornament or a chair — then lure the dog through the doorway several times.
- Add non-slip runners / rugs on wood and laminate — greyhounds slip and injure legs.
- Gate the stairs if you can't supervise; keep crate / bed away from the front door, TV and washing machine.
Garden / toilet area
- Fence 1.5–1.8 m, no gaps or holes, self-closing gate, check escape routes under and over.
- Remove: fox / cat access points, toxic plants, sharp items, holes and uneven ground for the first weeks.
- Choose one toilet spot and one door; keep it boring and consistent.
- Night lighting on the path; poo bags and a hand towel by the door.
Bedding & crate — GAP NZ spec
- XXL crate, about 120 cm long (the dog must turn around easily), placed where they can see the family — the lounge is ideal. Make it the only bed to start with (it mirrors their kennel "bedroom"): soft blankets to nest, treats, chews and toys inside, and feed meals in the crate (then toilet after eating). Keep children and other pets out of the crate.
- Thick orthopaedic bed (10–15 cm minimum) elsewhere only once the crate is loved. Washable covers — expect accidents and drool in week 1.
- Stairs / floors / glass (first-time house, GAP NZ): non-slip matting or carpet on stairs and slippery floors · make a treat trail of high-value food (cooked chicken, cheese, dog roll) at the dog's pace · use a harness so you can support and catch slips · baby-gate stairs when unsupervised · keep TV, blender and phone noise low for the first days.
- Furniture rule: off sofas and beds for at least 3 weeks. Manage access with the crate / pen / lead so they are never rewarded for climbing on soft furniture; reward settling on their own bed and call them happily off with a treat. Never grab the collar to drag them off (startle-snap risk) — instead build collar-grab = treat: gently hold the collar, feed a treat, release. Ten reps, twice daily.
- Water bucket clipped to the crate if the dog will be inside for longer daytime stretches.
Thin-skin warning: greyhound skin tears easily. No rough wrestling, no prong or choke corrections, no dragging by the collar. Support chest and hindquarters if lifting; never lift by the scruff.
4 · Shopping list
| Category | Must have (before day 0) | Nice to have (weeks 1–2) | Skip / wait |
|---|---|---|---|
| Walking | Flat collar + ID tag; 1.8–2 m fixed lead (no flexi); basket muzzle (usually supplied by the adoption group — must allow panting and drinking, eyes clear); poo bags. | Well-fitted harness for training; spare lead; coat and jumper for cold; boots for ice and road salt. | Flexi lead; long-line until recall is reliable; head collar until assessed. |
| Sleep / containment | XXL crate ~120 cm; baby gates or playpen; thick orthopaedic bed; crate bedding. | Second bed; crate cover; chew-safe blanket; clipped water bucket. | — |
| Food | The kennel's current food and amounts for the first 7–10 days; measuring cup; slow-feeder bowl if gulping; small soft high-value training treats (chicken, cheese, sausage, dried lung, liver, sardine-oil kibble). | Food puzzles; lick mat; Kong + peanut butter (£); snuffle mat. | A new "premium" diet switch on day 1; raw or bones without vet advice; table scraps. |
| Cleaning | Enzymatic cleaner (never ammonia-based — leftover smell reads as another animal's urine); paper towels; bin liners; lint roller. | Waterproof mattress protector; boot tray. | — |
| Health | Vet and emergency-vet numbers; large-dog nail clippers and grinder; soft brush; dog first-aid basics; thermometer. | Toothbrush and vet-approved dental chews; calming spray or blanket. | Anything risky for teeth / small swallowing capacities. |
| Enrichment | 2–3 safe long-lasting rubber chews; snuffle mat or muffin-tin puzzle; cardboard boxes. | Fleece tug toy; stiff-bristle brush for lure coursing at home. | Anything they can swallow; antlers or bones unsupervised; small balls or squeakers unsupervised. |
Feeding: keep the kennel food and schedule at first; transition over 7–10 days if needed (75/25 → 50/50 → 25/75 → 100%, every 2–3 days). Feed two measured meals a day unless your vet advises otherwise; leave water available. Bloat caution in deep-chested dogs: feed on the floor (not raised bowls unless your vet says so), avoid vigorous exercise for 1 hour before or after meals, and don't free-feed. Ask your vet for exact portions — weight varies 25–40 kg.
5 · Vet, health & safety prep
- Book a new-dog check within 3–7 days: vaccines up to date, parasite prevention, dental check (racing dogs often need professional cleaning), weight. Bring all records.
- Tell the vet: retired racer, thin skin, and that anaesthesia sensitivity is common in greyhounds — they often need adjusted anaesthesia. Ask about thyroid, heart, teeth and old racing injuries.
- Parasites: fleas, ticks, worms, heartworm (region-dependent) — follow your vet's schedule. Wash hands after handling waste.
- Grooming: weekly soft brush; nail check (long nails from racing kennels); ear and teeth checks; baths only when needed with a mild dog shampoo.
- Weather: greyhounds feel cold and heat quickly — coat in cold and wet weather; avoid midday summer heat, provide shade and water; never leave them in a car.
- Emergency card: dog's name, your number, vet and emergency vet, microchip number, allergies / meds — on the fridge and in your phone.
See the vet promptly for: vomiting or diarrhoea over 24 h; no eating over 48 h; lethargy; limping over 24 h; bleeding or cuts (thin skin bleeds freely); bloat signs (retching, swollen abdomen, restlessness — emergency); collapse; seizure; ingestion of glass, chocolate, xylitol or NSAIDs.
6 · Common first-time-owner traps
- Too much too soon: visitors, dog parks, off-lead fields, long hikes in week 1.
- Letting them off-lead: a greyhound can reach 60+ km/h. Until recall is bulletproof and you are inside a fully secure area, stay leashed — and keep the muzzle on in public initially.
- Assuming they know: stairs, doors, sofas, bins, "outside = toilet". Teach each one.
- Punishing accidents: delays learning and damages trust. Manage and clean instead (Guide 3).
- Feeding from the table / constant hand-feeding: creates begging, guarding and weight gain.
- Leaving alone for hours in week 1: this builds separation anxiety. Start with seconds (Guide 4).
Your week-0 timeline
| When | Do |
|---|---|
| 2–3 days before | Buy essentials; set up crate, bed and gates; check the fence; find vet and emergency vet; notify landlord, insurance and microchip registry. |
| Day before | Read Guide 2; print the daily routine and toilet log; prep the kennel food; lay out towels and cleaner; charge your phone. |
| Adoption day | Follow Guide 2 — day-0 protocol. |
Resources — GAP NZ + further reading
| Read / watch | Why |
|---|---|
| Settling In — top 10 + bedtime plan | Your week-1 bible for crates, walks, furniture and sleep. |
| 1. Being inside a house for the first time | Stairs, floors, glass, furniture rules, collar-grab practice. |
| 2. Fear and Anxiety | Body-language table above. |
| 4. Crate Training | Setup → introduce → when to use (4-hour rule) → phasing out. |
| 30-day Settling Video Diary (Coby) | Real days 1 → 30 — watch days 1–2, 9, 13, 20, 21 first. |
Preparation FAQs
What should I buy before adopting a greyhound?
Before day 0: an XXL crate (~120 cm), a thick orthopaedic bed, flat collar with ID tag, fixed lead, well-fitted harness, basket muzzle, the kennel's current food, a measuring cup, enzymatic cleaner, baby gates, poo bags and small high-value training treats. See the full shopping table above.
What size crate does a greyhound need?
An XXL crate around 120 cm long so the dog can turn around easily — GAP NZ recommends this for most greyhounds. Place it where they can see the family (lounge ideal), add soft bedding, keep it their only bed to start with, and never use it as punishment. Daytime use: no more than 4 hours without a break.
How do I greyhound-proof my home?
Lift small objects, cables, socks, hair ties, remotes and medicines; secure bins and cupboards; block gaps behind sofas; add non-slip runners on slippery floors; mark glass doors with stickers or tape (then lure the dog through); gate the stairs unsupervised; secure the garden fence and pick one toilet spot.
What should I ask the adoption group about my greyhound?
Cat and small-pet suitability, stairs, children, alone-time and crate history, current food and amounts, toilet routine they already know, teeth and weight, any old racing injuries, anaesthesia sensitivity, and any cough or diarrhoea at pickup.
Do I need pet insurance before bringing a greyhound home?
Yes — get quotes for accident and illness cover before pickup, because pre-existing conditions are usually excluded. Tell your vet the dog is a retired racer: greyhounds often need adjusted anaesthesia and have breed-specific thyroid and dental considerations.